How I Fixed My Horrible Skin After 20 Years Of Tanning + Acne
No. This isn’t an MLM post.
Tanning, harsh chemicals, toxic beauty products, and Accutane all led me to a horrendous cycle of inflammation, hyperpigmentation and never ending acne. For about 20 years, I was apparently conducting a little experiment of what happens if you act like a complete idiot and do every. solitary. thing. wrong to your skin. I don’t recall signing up for this, and I CERTAINLY don’t recall getting cash compensation for being a part of this study.
{The left photo was taken IN BETWEEN breakouts last year — just because I wanted you to see the hyperpigmentation issue I was dealing with. In the past year, my acne issues have also finally resolved.
SO THERE IS HOPE FOR YOU, EVEN IF YOU WERE AN IDIOT TOO!
Basically I was SEt up for failure
It alllll started with my mom. Never once do I remember even HEARING about SPF — considering she used to slather herself in Crisco and bake herself on sheets of aluminum foil, she wasn’t exactly a poster child for sunscreen.
On top of that, my mom still uses BAR SOAP to clean her face. She sleeps in her makeup half the time, and has never once applied a “product" of any sort. So this is the kind of beauty barnyard in which I was raised, k?
ACNE, TANNING, AND OTHER UNFORTUNATE EVENTS
Flash forward to my teens and I started getting REAL bad skin. I started tanning to fix it… which unfortunately worked so I kept it up for oh, about FIFTEEN YEARS.
In my early 20s, my skin got to a horrendous breaking point. I would show you a picture but I have destroyed all evidence of this time period. I had tried retin-A, oral meds, all the benzole peroxides and salicylics. Finally went on Accutane. BIGGEST REGRET OF MY LIFE. My mom really had a bad feeling about it, but signed off because I was so desperate and they didn’t warn us of any side effects except suicidal thoughts.
While I was on Accutane, we went on a family cruise and I got burnt to a crisp (you are strictly prohibited from being in the sun on Accutane since your skin completely peels off daily). LORD HELP MY STUPIDITY.
A year after Accutane, my skin got continually worse and that was the case right up until the summer of 2018. Even after changing my diet (eliminating dairy, gluten, soy, etc) and making tons of lifestyle changes, my skin didn’t budge.
A SKIN CARE REVELATION
It all started to change when I was invited to have a holistic facial at Reishi in Chicago. The information I was given was unlike anything I had heard and a complete 180 from what I was doing. My esthetician was from Europe (where they are just so much more smart about skin) had studied with Marie Veronique, sort of a pioneer of holistic skincare who I had never heard of.
From her site: “Marie-Veronique Nadeau is a chemist who founded Marie Veronique in 2002. An inventor at heart who suffered from teenage acne, she was moved to create her own products when she could find nothing on the market that was clean and effective to address her rosacea.”
She explained that I had a compromised skin barrier, likely due to all the harsh acne products I’d used over the years —benzyl peroxide, proactiv, retin-A, etc— and sun abuse. I was using too many ACTIVES (acids, vitamin c, glycolics, retinol, salicylic, etc) and nothing to repair the torn down skin. This led to my skin being angry— inflammation and more acne— plus, an inability to heal. And when the barrier is compromised, so is the skin microbiome.
Huh? Never had anyone talked to me about skin barrier in all my dermatologist and facial appointments.
She also said that I had elevated Testosterone (which proved to be true via my hormone testing) which was likely due to elevated ESTROGEN, and the body trying to compensate. This causes jawline/neck acne. I needed to address that as well.
Her recommendations:
remove actives (vit c, retinol) and AHA acids (like glycolic/salicylic) and replace with more gentle options and do them only 1x/week until skin barrier is fixed
stop using scrubs
add a probiotic lotion/mist to rebalance microbiome
use a facial oil to rebalance skin barrier
use a gentle vitamin A product (she says you have to WORK UP to retin-A over the course of years)
Of course, I started doing alot of my own research and developed a whole new skincare routine. I also booked a dermatologist consultation to see what options I had to help with my scarring and hyper pigmentation. My sunspots were SO BAD, I practically had an entire black outline around my cheek and when I got tan it was unreal.
DERMAL INFUSION, HYDRO FACIALS, Microneedling
DERMAL INFUSION: It’s 3-fold. Using a diamond grit, it exfoliates your skin, while a vaccuum simultaneously sucks out years of grime from your pores and at the same time infuses serums deep into the skin. DOES NOT HURT. Looking back, I think this was the best option because it really cleaned out my congested pores. Zero downtime but redness. It helped me greatly in brightening hyperpigmentation, and clearing out blackheads and pores. DURING these treatments, I made sure to stay out of the sun, and protect my skin barrier by using the Barrier Lipid Complex I talk about below. I did 5 treatments.
HYDRO FACIALS FOR VERY SENSITIVE SKIN: if you have lots of inflammation, rosacea, or other condition, try a HYDRO-FACIAL. It basically does the same thing in regards to vacuuming out the debris, oil, and blackheads without the dermabrasion! So it is much more gentle and they also infuse serums deep into the skin after doing a mild exfoliation so you are super hydrated. If you are concerned about a skin purge - ask for a salicylic treatment afterward.
MICRONEEDLING: I eventually worked my way up to a series of microneedling sessions. I opted for PRP which helps to repair and more quickly rejuvenate the skin. I responded well to them —the skin is basically stimulated to make more collagen and heal based on tiny abrasions from the needles. You are numbed and it was uncomfortable, but not immensely.
MY NATURAL SKINCARE ROUTINE
BOTTOM LINE: You have to repair your skin barrier, ditch chemicals, cleanse properly, and heal.
Order of application of products: cleanser >> toner >> mists >> serums + gels >> moisturizer + oils
STEP 1: DOUBLE CLEANSING.
I picked up the double cleansing tip from the Korean beauty world. HERE’S THE DEAL: it’s chemistry. Oil and water repel each other. Like dissolves like. So if you have oils in your skin and in your makeup, and you put a water based cleanser on there, it’s not absorbing it. But OIL DOES.
But you’re still cleansing afterward, so you won’t have gross oil all over your skin, k?
First, I use Jojoba oil, because it has a similar makeup to skin’s sebum so generally won’t clog pores —but rosehip or argan are also great. Do not use coconut! I rub it all over my face — take a minute to really massage the face as increased circulation promotes healing — then take a hot microfiber rag and lift off all the makeup. Your skin will feel amazing.
2. THEN you follow it up with actual cleansing. A few favorites: GOOP Cloudberry Exfoliating Cleanser (avoid or use sparingly if skin is inflamed), First Aid Beauty Pure Skin Cleanser (gentle, will work for anyone), Green Envee Clarify Cleansing Gel // Erin’s Faces Clarifying Charcoal Cleanser // Clearstem Gentle Clean // Agent Nateur Lactic Acid Face Wash
For a full list of ALL my favorite natural skincare products see my post here.
STEP 2: TONERS.
A HUGE part of preventing acne and wrinkles is making sure ALL YOUR MAKEUP IS OFF. Even after double cleansing, you will find some still lingering.
1. In the morning, my skin isn’t as dirty so I use the Thayers Milky Toner or the Indie Lee CoQ10 Brightening Toner. A pricier option, but well worth it is Agent Nateur Holi Water.
2. At night, or after wearing makeup, I use the Thayers unscented witch hazel toner on a cotton round to remove all excess. I then follow up with either the Dr. Ceuracle BHA Tea Tree Toner or the Farmacy Brighten Up TXA toner — both have gentle exfoliants to remove dead skin cells. If you struggle with rosacea, use only the Farmacy as it has azelaic acid.
STEP 3 (optional): MISTS.
Mists can serve a few purposes, they are mainly for hydrating the skin before serums. Think of a sponge— a dry sponge wont absorb nearly as much as a wet one will. Your skin operates similarly. But they are also helpful for adding probiotics and balancing the skin.
A few favorites:
Marie Veronique Probiotic Mist (rebalancing skin microbiome and calming inflammation), Marie Veronique Treatment Mist (fhyperpigmentation, congested, dehydrated skin), Green Envee Hydrate Facial Mist (hydration, fine lines, antioxidants), Green Envee Bright Facial Mist (hyperpigmentation, radiance)
STEP 4: SERUMS.
If I’m wearing makeup, I don’t do any skincare beyond toners for the day. If not wearing makeup, I use any combination of the following to help with brightening/ acne/ repairing barrier:
HYALURONIC ACID. So important for restoring and retaining moisture to the skin—however, its important you put this on moist skin, or it can dehydrate you more. (mists, toners!) Some good ones in various price points are: The Ordinary Hyaluronic + B5 // Drunk Elephant B Hydra Serum // Summer Fridays Dream Oasis Deep Hydration// Clearstem Cell Renew
ANTIOXIDANTS /VITAMIN C. (Note: if barrier is really compromised then skip vitamin C) Antioxidants will help by protecting your skin from pollutants and sun damange, while also helping to brighten. Some favorites are: Mad Hippie Vitamin C // Marie Veronique C- Therapy Serum // Clearstem Clearity Serum // Drunk Elephant C-Firma Serum // Marie Veronique C + E + Ferulic
NIACINAMIDE. For ALL skin issues involving inflammation or redness, niacinamide is the key. Marie Veronique Soothing B3 is a higher price point, but what I originally used and classify as worth it. Other great options are: The Ordinary Niacinamide/Zinc serum (zinc is great for acne prevention), Skin Fix Triple Lipid Collagen Activating Serum
BARRIER REPAIR. Marie Veronique Barrier Restore Serum // Marie Veronique Barrier Lipid Complex // Skin Fix Triple Lipid Collagen Activating Serum
NIGHT ONLY SERUMS:
VITAMIN A. (Note: if barrier is really compromised then skip vitamin A/retinols) Start slow. For further reduction of wrinkles and discoloration, and also prevention of acne, a gentle Vitamin A serum can help. Mad Hippie Super A Serum (start with just a few nights/wk) and night. Retinol requires 2 metabolic steps, whereas HPR, a new form of vitamin A in this serum, is bioavailable in its current state.
RETINOLS. Marie Veronique Gentle Retinol Serum // Marie Veronique Multi-Retinol Night Emulsion // First Aid Beauty Retinol Complex Serum
STEP 5 (optional): MOISTURIZER.
During the day, I don’t like wearing oils as moisturizers, so I opt for other moisturizers. At night, however, oils are a more deeply penetrating option and I wear them in place of or over a moisturizer.
Some clean, non greasy moisturizers: Drunk Elephant Polypeptide Cream // First Aid Beauty Coconut Water Gel // Clearstem Hydraglow Moisturizer // First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Oil Control Moisturizer // Summer Fridays Oil Free Cloud Gel
FINAL STEP 6: OILS.
OILS ARE YOUR LAST STEP in any skincare regime as nothing can penetrate below an oil!
If you are very acne prone, I would keep it very simple and stick to jojoba oil as it is the least likely to cause any pore clogging or adjustment period. Some favorites:
Desert Essence Jojoba Oil // Sky Organics Rosehip Oil // Now Solutions Marula Oil
MASKS + ACIDS.
Until your skin is no longer inflammed and barrier is restored, you don’t want to use many actives or acids. The two toners I listed above (Dr. Ceuracle BHA Tea Tree Toner or the Farmacy Brighten Up TXA toner) are enough for now. A very gentle brightening / light exfoliation product is the Dr. Ceuracle Gangwha Rice Granule pack.
Acne Overnight Treatment: I use the Lerosett by Gunila of Sweden mask (only minerals and water) a spot treatment to shrink zits over night. Clearstem Sulfur Spot + Mask is a great comprehensive treatment.
Hydration: this Mediheal mask is the #1 sheet mask in S. Korea— won’t break you out and barely a fragrance. Great for keeping skin balanced. Naturopathica Manuka Hydrating Gel Mask // Clearstem Hydraberry Mask (also great for rosacea) // First Aid Beauty Oatmeal Mask // Derma E Cryo Hydra Gel mask
SUNBLOCK: PREVENTING FUTURE DAMAGE WITHOUT CAUSING MORE DAMAGE.
You do not want chemical sunscreen. Even the FDA is now admitting these are full of nasties and the only two safe ingredients are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
Marie Veronique Protective Day Oil is a lightweight oil I wore all summer during the day. It prevents wrinkles by blocking UV- induced enzymes that destroy collagen. Spectra tests on PROTECTIVE DAY OIL show high levels of UV protection in the long wavelength, UVA range. Marie Veronique Tinted SPF is another great option.
Erin’s Faces Peptide SPF 30, recommended by EWG, this multi purpose sunscreen has skin loving ingredients and leaves a non greasy, luminous finish —can even be used on kids — fragrance, gluten, dye, paraben, and crap free!
OTHER TIPS FOR PREVENTING ACNE:
Some people will tell you acne is ALL diet or ALL skincare. In my 20 years of dealing with it and trying literally everything, I will tell you it’s MULTI-FACETED.
Here are some additional things that make a huge difference:
Obviously removing allergens like gluten, soy, and dairy. Dairy is the most important as it adds extra estrogens which cause things to grow. Refined sugar is also the enemy— it burdens the liver and leads to toxic buildup.
AVOID flax/ sesame seeds. They also have an estrogenic effect on the body and can cause hormonal acne to be ten times worse. I did my own experiment and I broke out on every square inch of my neck/jaw when I ate some flax for a month. I have heard similar results from others.
Eat 1 raw carrot/day per the research of Ray Peat — it contains a certain type of fiber that binds to excess estrogens and removes them from the body.
Change your pillowcase every other night. Sleep on it once, then rotate it the next night, then get a new one. I just buy a bunch so I don’t have to wash them constantly — I’m not about that life!
Only use FREE + CLEAR detergent (I like ECOS) and dryer balls. You don’t need to be breathing in those endocrine disruptors OR sleeping on a bunch of chemicals/fragrance!
Start using non-toxic makeup if you haven’t yet. Start with foundation! I have other beauty products listed on my shop page.
Beware of dimethicone — it’s purpose is to make your skin feel and look smooth by filling in your pores (and essentially clogging them).
Check your skincare and makeup for pore clogging ingredients here
Although B vitamins are effective for skin, you CAN be getting too much B6, B12, or Zinc — all of which can lead to more breakouts. Read more here.
You CAN fix your skin, but please don’t think Accutane or harsh chemicals are the answer — they will lead you into a spiral or even more issues.
XOXO, Brit
Wondering who's the mysterious wordy genius behind these posts? Follow this little rabbit trail to read more About Me! The use of the term genius is open to interpretation.